Millions of people have made scanning products with their smartphones a habit. This is not only a practice for the cosmetics industry, but also for the food industry. There are three applications that analyze their compositions. Yuka, which is already very popular for food products; QuelProduit from UFC-Que Choisir; INCI Beauty, which is dedicated to cosmetics.
Jean-Christophe Janicot is the founder of INCI Beauty. He explains how difficult it is to rate sunscreen products, whose complex composition can be considered medicine from other countries. The regulations allow for 27 UV filters. Brands do not disclose their concentrations. They are however all controversial and sometimes considered to be endocrine disruptors, or even carcinogenic.
INCI Beauty app emphasizes mineral filters over petrochemicals to aid sunscreen users. Yuka, however, targets nanoparticles more. It's often the difference that makes the biggest difference. The Alphanova kids SPF50 spray scores 16.8/20 at Inci Beauty and only 20/100 at Yuka due to the titanium dioxide. The reverse is true: Nuxe Sun 50 milk is rated 72/100 on Yuka, but only 4.4/20 on Inci.
The UFC assessments are similar to Yuka's and indicate the risks to different audiences (pregnant women, adults, and children aged 3-16). However, the most recent update to the sheets for several products can be found back as far as 2018.
Jean-Christophe Janicot says that the composition of creams doesn't change. Even though big brands struggle to go green, regardless of the application. They usually use a higher-end organic or'mineral' line. A classic sunscreen is still effective. The risks are minimal if the application is only occasionally.